Surfing big boards is not only challanging, it's dangerous. After a recent brush with my own log I found a new respect for those old boys who pushed their bodies and equipment to the limits. Here's a great short on Greg Noll and his early experiences surfing Hawaiian big wave spots Pipeline and Waimea Bay. Imagine going straight on a 15ft Wiamea Bay closeout and deciding to drop to your stomach so only not lose your board. Greg Noll knows about it, he wasn't nicknamed 'The Bull' for nothing. 


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