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MANU BAY IN THE EARLY 60'S

My uncle's would tell me stories of their first surf trips to Raglan. There was no road going down to Manu Bay, so they'd sleep up on the hill, next to their cars, and walk down through a farm that was on the point in the morning. The waves were much longer than they are now because there was no boat ramp. Back then to meet other surfers was exciting. More people to surf with, more people to share the stoke. If you passed people with boards strapped to their roof you would pull over and introduce yourself, update each other on the conditions and swap names for next time. Manu Bay sure is a different place now, what with all...

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WHAT WE'RE READING: MIKI DORA BY DAVID RENSIN

An in depth and personal look into the life of ‘The Black Knight’ - sixties Malibu surf scene hero - Mike Dora. He lived off his Hollywood-style good looks, crooked wits, and phony credit cards. Dora led a life we all dream but don’t dare, chasing perfect waves around the globe. Surfing’s own outlaw, Dora’s escapades ended with him spending much of his time running from the FBI, eventually landing him in jail for fraud thirty years later. A complex individual, despite being hero and icon, Dora railed against the same surf industry for the prostitution of surf culture. With accounts from hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers  ‘All for a Few Perfect Waves’ attempts...

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GREG NOLL 'THE BULL'

Surfing big boards is not only challanging, it's dangerous. After a recent brush with my own log I found a new respect for those old boys who pushed their bodies and equipment to the limits. Here's a great short on Greg Noll and his early experiences surfing Hawaiian big wave spots Pipeline and Waimea Bay. Imagine going straight on a 15ft Wiamea Bay closeout and deciding to drop to your stomach so only not lose your board. Greg Noll knows about it, he wasn't nicknamed 'The Bull' for nothing.   

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BIG TWIN

Introducing the Big Twin. Fast and loose just like the era it was inspired by, but with a modern twist. Refined right down while still holding volume. Check out one of our favourite surfers Jason Salisbury to get you in the vibe.       

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