Interview Nathan Myers Photo: Deus Website. “I hate longboarders as much as anyone,” says pro longboarder Harrison Roach, “when they paddle out in big waves and start hogging all the sets. That’s what gave longboards a bad name in the first place.” It’s an interesting bias to examine: the underlying hostility of thruster-culture against log-riders. Of course they’re fun to ride in small waves, but don’t dare be seen dragging 9-feet of foam up the beach sober. Roach grew up in the swell-starved, sand-point heaven of Noosa Heads, Australia. As a competitive grom, he was told to choose: short or long. “People told me you can’t succeed at either if you’re trying to do both,” says Roach. “But I wasn’t...
Ignore the fact that circumstances were about to shoot the lights out on Stoner’s career, his love life, his sanity. Take in the happiness of this moment. Ron and Paulette, North Shore, 1967. Ron Stoner was the world’s best surf photographer in 1966, and had some money in his pocket, and was good-looking in the bargain. But he was a wash-out with the ladies. Took his sister to SURFER Poll. Blew an easy chance to lose his virginity to the local party girl. That summer Stoner had his eyes on a stunning little blonde named Paulette Martinson, but couldn’t work up the nerve to ask her out. Partly because she was just 14—Stoner was 21—but more because he just had no game with the...
Sri Lanka the land of curd and honey and sandy point breaks. A photo essay brought to you by Ryan Glover and friends. Enjoy.
Surf photos by Mark Hill.
All others by Ryan Glover.
A short film by George Greenough that perfectly celebrates the relationship between surfers, their cars, the unknown landscape and the search for waves.
